The Burnt Ends Make the Case at Crosseyed Cricket

Inside Bend's Cross-Eyed Cricket, Hattie's BBQ gives smoked-meat lovers something worth seeking out. The burnt ends and cheesy brisket sandwich made a particularly strong impression on us, and recent diners have been finding plenty to like about the barbecue, too.

There's something satisfying about going out for barbecue and finding exactly the kind of food you were hoping for. No complicated explanation needed. Just an order you enjoy enough to remember, and a reason to come back.

That's what happened when we visited Crosseyed Crickit in Bend for Hattie's BBQ.

Hattie's operates inside The Cross-Eyed Cricket Watering Hole, bringing its Central Texas-inspired barbecue to a setting better known as a lively country bar than a traditional smokehouse. It's an interesting combination: a place where you can come for the food without necessarily making an entire evening of the bar.

We came for the barbecue, and two dishes made the visit.

The burnt ends were outstanding. So was the cheesy brisket sandwich. Both earned our highest praise, the kind reserved for food that makes ordering something different next time a surprisingly difficult decision.

The sandwich is an appealing idea even before the first bite. Hattie's builds it around sliced brisket, smoky cheese, pepperoncini and white onion on a potato bun. It's a more composed way to enjoy barbecue than ordering brisket by the pound, and in our experience, it was every bit as worthwhile.

The burnt ends were equally convincing. Hattie's uses pork belly for its version, smoking the meat before finishing the pieces with a glaze. Whatever the preparation contributes, the finished dish was one of our favorites.

The brisket itself and the tallow fries also stood out among what we enjoyed. That's a strong showing for a meal centered on smoked meat, particularly when the two dishes we'd most readily recommend are built around different cuts and preparations.

Our enthusiasm isn't entirely out of step with what other customers have been reporting.

Recent accounts on Restaurantji include diners praising the brisket, with several also speaking favorably about the tenderness of Hattie's smoked meats. Other recent customer comments mention the sausage and side dishes, suggesting that there's more worth exploring here than the orders that won us over.

Those observations don't mean every visit will be equally successful, and they aren't a substitute for trying those dishes ourselves. They do, however, make the restaurant's broader menu more interesting.

There are a few reasons to keep expectations grounded. Our own experience didn't include the ribs or pulled pork, two barbecue staples we'd like to try before making any sweeping judgment about Hattie's full range. Recent customer comments have also included occasional complaints about individual orders and preferences for particular sauces or sides. Those are worth noting without turning a handful of experiences into a verdict on the kitchen.

What matters most to us is what actually arrived at our table.

The burnt ends and cheesy brisket sandwich delivered. The brisket and tallow fries added to the appeal. And some of the leftovers eventually found their way to friends, who enjoyed them as well.

We've visited more than once, but we're not going to claim that a handful of meals tells the complete story of a restaurant. What we can say is that Hattie's gave us two dishes we'd recommend enthusiastically, with enough other promising choices to make a return visit appealing.

The verdict: Crosseyed Crickit is worth considering for Hattie's BBQ alone. Go for the burnt ends and cheesy brisket sandwich; those are the orders that made believers out of us. We'd like to explore the ribs and pulled pork before making a broader judgment, but the food we've enjoyed already gives us a very good reason to return.